Notre Dame Revisited

By Louise Peloquin

     Since Richard Howe’s April 3, 2023 post on Notre Dame (1), we have regularly covered the cathedral’s meticulous renovation. (2)

     A journalist aims at investigating and gathering facts. A tourist plans to take in must-see spots. With the latter in mind, I decided to join hundreds of thrilled tourists and return to “the Limestone Phoenix.”

Notre Dame reopened on December 8, 2024. Since then, she has received some 30,000 visitors a day. Entry is well-organized. Security procedures are strict without being troublesome.

People without tickets can queue for hours before reaching the doorway. Therefore, it is wise to reserve, free of charge, a specific time slot 48 hours ahead of the visit.

https://www.notredamedeparis.fr/en/visit/reservation/

At the end of the reservation process, the future pilgrim, if so inclined, can make a donation of one euro minimum to contribute to Notre Dame’s ongoing renovation.

Waiting in line is never pleasurable, especially when pushing, elbowing and queue-cutting are expected. Surprisingly, on that gloriously sunny April 28th morning, none of this occurred as I made my way to the reserved time-slot line. Although the crowd was dense, everyone seemed excited to access the cathedral and behaved courteously, much like tourists did during the 2024 Paris Summer Olympics. The Notre Dame sightseers had come from all over the world to share an epiphany – experiencing pure beauty. Even the security guards kept smiling as they checked tickets and bags before welcoming us with two words – “bonne visite.”

As soon as I crossed the threshold, “the Limestone Phoenix” spread wings of soft light over me. While Notre Dame’s arches had been darkened by centuries of dust before the 2019 fire, renovation had turned the grey stone blond.

Arches

Security and safety in highly-frequented locations require rules and regulations. Consequently, meandering in Notre Dame is forbidden. The visitor has a set itinerary: down the left aisle, around the altar area, down the right aisle and exit. Any delinquent visitor is immediately stopped by a ND volunteer’s firm arm and steady smile. Prayer and meditation are possible within corded-off sections of the nave and a side chapel. Talking and photo-snapping are prohibited in these areas and violators are swiftly removed. After all, although the cathedral belongs to the French government, it remains a place of worship. (3) 

The left aisle, unpainted side chapels have become repositories for tapestries, not the Flanders hangings found in Loire Valley châteaux but rather Gobelins works by Matisse, Braque and French-Chinese artist Sao Wou-Ki, for example. Here is the Braque.

Tapestry

By deciphering four of the dozen languages buzzing around me, I understood the fellow visitors judging the new wall-hangings. Was juxtaposing the ancient and the contemporary appropriate inside Notre Dame cathedral?  For some, this was “scandalous and blasphemous,” for others, “bold and avant-garde.”

As I forged ahead, weaving through those who “see” by proxy through IPhone camera screens, I stepped on toes and bumped into backs as my face tilted upward in admiration for the exquisite French craftsmanship.

The soft new lighting enhances each architectural curve and accents the colorful stained glass and blond limestone. 1500 handmade chairs, whose oak came from sustainably-managed French forests, blend in perfectly with the majestic decor.

Arches and chairs

The two large rose windows, meticulously cleaned by hand with special cotton swabs, are scintillating kaleidoscopes of color.

Rose window

Side chapels have recovered the same vibrant shades French architect Viollet-le-Duc had chosen for his 19th-century restoration. Words cannot do justice to their beauty.

Chapel with white altar and three saints on red background.

Chapel with two winged beasts.

Chapel with man’s face and fleur de lys on blue background.

Column and blue ceiling

Chapel with Sacred Heart of Jesus statue.

Chapel altar with 3-leaf “clovers”.

Chapel wall with scenes from life of Jesus.

The exquisitely-carved wood carvings around the altar area had been spared by the 2019 fire. However, soot and ashes caused by flames and the toppled spire left them seriously soiled. Like the stained glass, these 14th-century carvings, depicting scenes from the life of Christ, were all cleaned by hand. The result is breathtaking, a medieval manga whose characters seem to call out to the pilgrim. (4) 

Mary, glowing with child, being greeted by her cousin Elizabeth.

Baptism of Jesus.

Jesus preaching with his disciples.

The Last Supper

Jesus resurrected with Thomas.

Jesus on the road to Emmaus with disciples.

Seeing the damaged rooster which topped Viollet-le-Duc’s flame-eaten spire is extremely moving because it was thought to be lost. (5) Salvaged from a mountain of debris, it is now on display with the following homage to the heroes who saved Notre Dame. Here is the English version of the bilingual explanatory panel:

“Notre Dame de Paris has been reborn from the ashes and is even more beautiful.

We owe it to the heroism of the firefighters. Risking their lives, they defeated the flames and saved the monument from total destruction.

We owe it to the 340,000 donors from France and all over the world who, even as the fire blazed during the night, demonstrated their attachment to the cathedral through an incredible display of generosity. In just a few hours, 840 million euros were raised.

Finally, we owe it to the more than 2 000 builders who, from 2019 through 2024, pooled their efforts, talents, and determination, to resurrect the damaged cathedral, Among them, General Georgelin, who died in August 2023, diligently sent this incredible collective adventure on the path to success.” (6)

Rooster

The wrought iron work inside the cathedral, underwent serious polishing by hand.

Altar area and ironwork gate.

The curious visitor cannot help but stop to read the plaques placed here and there within the cathedral. Three examples:

English translation of the plaque:

In the year 1163, under the pontificate of Pope Alexander III and the reign of Louis VII, Maurice, born in Sully sur Loire, Bishop of Paris (1160-1196) undertook the construction of this cathedral in honor of the blessed Virgin Mary under the title of Notre Dame de Paris.

English translation of the plaque:

On August 26, 1944, General de Gaulle, accompanied by the chiefs of the Resistance and by General Leclerc, liberator of Paris at the head of the 2nd DB, went to Notre Dame to sing the Magnificat.

English translation of the plaque:

On June 26, 2002, a Mass memorial was founded in order that, each year, the anniversary of the liberation of Paris may be the occasion to pray at Notre Dame for WWII victims and for peace.

World War One British Empire memorial written in English.

Renovation continues at Notre Dame. The remaining scaffolding will soon disappear and the pilgrim will be once again be able to enjoy a Bertillon sorbet in Notre Dame’s shady green garden. (7) 

Behind the cathedral.

This is but a glimpse of the beloved “Limestone Phoenix.” Once again, she embraces the pilgrims who gaze at her in wonder. (8) 

Front facade

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https://richardhowe.com/2023/04/03/notre-dame-de-paris-an-update/

https://richardhowe.com/2023/12/18/gift-wrapped-in-steel-notre-dames-new-spire/#comments

https://richardhowe.com/2024/02/21/notre-dame-of-paris-spire-update/

https://richardhowe.com/2024/12/04/notre-dame-the-limestone-phoenix/

https://richardhowe.com/2024/12/07/notre-dame-inauguration-news-flash/

3) France’s laws regarding secularization stipulate that the French government owns all churches built before 1905, including Notre Dame. The government allows the Archdiocese of Paris to use the cathedral for free. The Archdiocese of Paris covers church upkeep and employee salaries.

4) Because the faithful of the past were rather noisy, between 1300 and 1350, a wall, adorned with wooden sculptures depicting scenes from the life of Christ, was built to reduce the noise in the choir area.

5)  The rooster is a symbol of France because of the play on words of the Latin “gallus” meaning Gaul and “gallus” meaning coq or rooster. In 51-58 BCE, when he conquered the entire area where the Celtics lived, Julius Caesar named it “Gaul” which became France. Glimpses of the new rooster in the links:                                                                                                              https://richardhowe.com/2023/12/18/gift-wrapped-in-steel-notre-dames-new-spire/#comments                                                                                                    and                                          https://richardhowe.com/2024/02/21/notre-dame-of-paris-spire-update/

6) French general Jean-Louis Georgelin (1948-2023) was pulled from retirement to oversee Notre Dame’s restoration. General Georgelin had served as chief of France’s military staff and had commanded operations in Afghanistan, the Balkans and beyond.

7) Bertillon, established in 1854, is a popular French ice cream and sorbet manufacturer located on l’Île Saint Louis.

8) Photos and translations by Louise Peloquin.